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Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:58 am
by LWS66
This might make a good sticky....Mr Moderator????

Thought I'd start a thread for owners to post a list of anything that's gone wrong with their 1000S/ST/SF variants, and their overall opinions. Might be of some value to other owners as well as prospective buyers wondering what can go wrong with them (not much, according to my experience)


I've got close to 35000miles on mine and most of my issues have been minor (in no particular order):

1) Mirror paint flaking/rattling glass: replaced under warranty. The only warranty item I had.

2) Gear shifter hung up: was stuck in position after a gear change: firmly worked it loose roadside, a small metal tab came out at oil change. Turns out to have been an insignifcant part of the shifter assembly, never any problems since, this happened within a few thousand miles of ownership. It was under warranty, but not needed.

3) Lowbeam headlight assembly: the plastic sockets that suspend/adjust the assembly hardened and cracked/fell apart within the first year. (Never got around to having it replaced...just would have happened again I figured, being a poor design)
Assembly rattled around within the housing, had to remove headlight housing and fabricate new sockets using pieces of rubber hose to replace the plastic sockets. Added more foam on backside around bulb assembly to keep it solid. No problems with it anymore.

4) Highbeam assembly: glass bulb cracked after a year and 7000miles or so of ownership (I run it all the time during daylight)
Not replaced yet as it functions, and due to high cost to replace.

5) Underseat relay failure: I think it was the ECU relay, replaced with spare roadside, this around 30000miles.

6) Fuel pump fuse: about a month ago, replaced roadside, at about 33000miles.

7) Horn button: soldered wire on one terminal keeps coming off, many attempts at resoldering, eventually happens again. Wire is to short and under stress, need to add a short length of wire extension and try again....ongoing since new irritant!

8- Starter button: wire broke free from solder connection, seperate time i had water penetrate and short circuit, resoldered once, used dielectric grease the other, no further problems.

9) Various engine mount bolts loosened: Retorqued, must check bolts periodically.

10) Pilot lights: bulbs burn out occasionally, chalk it up to using cheap chinese bulbs.

11) Tail light bulb burned out once.

12) Rubber shifter pad: split, sooner than I expected, at molding seam. Replacement very durable.

13) Front Rotor Issues: Thought I had warped rotors, this within a year of ownership and after a few track day runs. Turns out they were heavily glazed. Cleaned up with sandpaper.....good as new.

14) Exhaust: a rubber hanger/mount under bike split. Replaced and shimmed correctly.

That's about it. All very minor issues, and can be rectified with attention to detail/assembly, better quality replacement electrical items mostly. The headlights are the biggest items, and not very durable as far as the adjustment setup goes. One bitch of an irritant is changing tires. The rim design makes seating tire beads a chore, the sharp bead edge is unlike any other rims, and the tire bead refuses to slide over the edge and seat. It requires multiple tire alignment attempts and excessive air pressure to seat. The windscreen black paint on the backside is a different shade of black, in direct sunlight it looks almost greenish compared to the bodywork black paint. Uses no oil, valves have remained within spec. Outstanding! :-D

The bike takes a licking and keeps on ticking....an "Old Reliable".....I'm impressed with the German engineering, in my case. :smt007
What say you? :smt006

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 12:50 pm
by tomtom
****

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 1:03 pm
by boilermaker
Lorin
A good idea.
Machine 1000st, purchased 2006, Mileage 30,000.
Defects in chronological order :
All engine mounting and casing bolts tightened.
Rubber swing arm/chain protection pad renewed.
Rear hugger modified to miss tyre.
New display console fitted (warranty job).
Right hand pencil coil and start cut -out relay fitted.
New starter solenoid switch fitted.
Start repeat relay/switch removed and by-passed.
Start button re-sitted to fairing panel new (marine) button fitted.
Rear seat lock removed and hidden pull-wire fitted.
Left hand pencil coil renewed.
Rear wheel bearings (inner two) renewed and rear wheel bearing sockets repaired with industrial resin.
New speedometer sensor fitted.
Catalysts removed.
Manifold depression vacuum hoses replaced.
Front brake caliper pad location pin drilled out and renewed.
Gear return spring in process of renewal.

Overall I am impressed with the industrial build quality of this machine, but not with the idiotic troublesome fashion items that should never be fitted to any working machine and are unfortunately fitted to most these days.

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 1:07 pm
by boilermaker
Tom
This has been aproblem with eastern european equipment for years, they do not seem to be able toformulate rubber compounds correctly, its a wonder that they did not suffer a population explosion!

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 3:03 pm
by LWS66
tomtom wrote:most of the rubber parts seem to degrade and crack. ie. footrest rubber isolating washers etc. , minor issues but annoying. Need to remember someone mentioning that the tyre rubs the rear mudguard if too much chain adjustment used.


I had to use a heat gun on the hugger(mudgaurd) to get it away from the tire. I forgot that one! And the rear master cylinder little rubber boot for the wiring dried and split into a bunch of pieces...had to tape that up. Most of the other rubber bits seem to be holding up, foot peg rubber is wearing a bit with the use, but still intact. I gather mostly due to the fact I keep it inside, and don't ride in inclimate weather at all, otherwise I'm sure I'd have the same issues.

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:00 pm
by iceman
Almost one year and 5,000 miles later with an MZ 1000 SF and all I've done is change the tires and oil and can't stop smiling when I ride it ! :D

Oh,I removed the intake cover and love the sound/roar that comes from it and also the added performance.

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 4:23 am
by peaster
20000 km on my red 1000SF clocked up with 100% reliability. But .... has anyone noticed a small amount of pitting on the chrome fork staunchions / tubes at the axle ends just beyond the maximum stroke of the fork. Looks to me like poor chrome quality rather than pitting due to stone damage. Has occurred on both tubes in a crazed pattern. Will clean up with wire wool / solvol, and is not work dissembling forks at this stage for hard grinding and re-chroming.
Usual maintenance, filters oils etc off the shelf. Had to trim the rear hugger (like everyone else I expect). :D

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:48 am
by mzsrus
hi andy here from Brecon Beacons, 2004 Nearly mint for year MZ 1000s Private plated 54 MZ

Seat Cowels rubs back as mentioned, will respray some day. prob all bike plastics

Had new interlock switch on front just after i Had it a few years ago,

Bought some rare crash bungs for all bike incase drop and have 2 spare engine cases in case too.

Just bought aftermarket front levers in black.

Thats it great for me, only done 6600 miles,

Did have race pipes on but too loud, and not run as well. and OMG LOUD or what. For sale if anyone want Remus Race VGood Condition.
Would like some legal exhausts, but too expensive.

Andrew still stuck on 14 mz ::<<((

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 6:00 am
by IlPrincipeBrutto
Hello everyone,

mine is an MZ 1000S, bought new in May 2006, and with 20K miles on it.
I've had te following

- warped discs. Replaced under warranty
- cracked exhaust, just before right-hand side cat. I had it welded, it has been fine since
- sticking throttle valves, resulting in fast idle (2000 revs). Graham's sorted that one.
- lots of electrical problems, like bike not starting, but that was due to a tired battery. Since replacing it with a Yuasa, things have improved a lot
- I have just changed all the footrests rubber bushes/washers, as they were frayed.

Nothing else I can think of.
Overall, it's not the worst bike that I've ever had (that ward goes to my 48K miles Thunderace), but it's been miles off the best (my faultless Yamaha Fz6, with 28K miles).

Ride Safe,

IPB

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 5:54 am
by Stephenonz
Hello LWS66

Can you give some more details on the following mod, as I think I have the same problem. Did you have to cut open the head lamp to do it?
Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults
3) Lowbeam headlight assembly: the plastic sockets that suspend/adjust the assembly hardened and cracked/fell apart within the first year. (Never got around to having it replaced...just would have happened again I figured, being a poor design)
Assembly rattled around within the housing, had to remove headlight housing and fabricate new sockets using pieces of rubber hose to replace the plastic sockets. Added more foam on backside around bulb assembly to keep it solid. No problems with it anymore.


thanks

Stephen

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:26 am
by iceman
I just ordered a set of H I D 8000 K lights and ballasts that I want to try and fit in the low beam holes.

They should be here tomorrow.If it works out the way I hope it will I'll post a picture and order another set as they are a quality set at a cheap price.

Or should I say the posted picture was...You never know with Ebay.

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:45 pm
by iceman
Not a good sign when the box arrives from the seller and on the outside it says "NO HISTORY OF WORKING CONDITION"

Sure enough they don't work !! I will send a message asking why in the Ebay listing it didn't say that.

If the seller doesn't make it right it will be the first time I been screwed on Ebay, :evil: 7-31- 10 Good news! We let the seller know the item wasn't as described, and the seller issued you a full refund. This case is now closed.

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:58 pm
by LWS66
Stephenonz wrote:Hello LWS66

Can you give some more details on the following mod, as I think I have the same problem. Did you have to cut open the head lamp to do it?
Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults
3) Lowbeam headlight assembly: the plastic sockets that suspend/adjust the assembly hardened and cracked/fell apart within the first year. (Never got around to having it replaced...just would have happened again I figured, being a poor design)
Assembly rattled around within the housing, had to remove headlight housing and fabricate new sockets using pieces of rubber hose to replace the plastic sockets. Added more foam on backside around bulb assembly to keep it solid. No problems with it anymore.


thanks

Stephen

No I did'nt cut the lense off like I've seen done on the German site. Instead I improvised. I recall it being an extremely fiddly deal, trying to hold the light socket with one hand by sticking my fingers into the bulb socket to hold it and press small sections of fuel line hose into the socket bores with the other(for the broken out plastic sockets) then try and pull the cast assembly back so the adjusters would go into the pieces of hose. Kinda hard to describe in an understandable manner, :? but bottom line, I got pieces of correct sized fuel line hose pressed into where the plastic pieces fell out of and then was able to pull the assembly back into place. It's held since. :-D

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 1:22 pm
by MJ310
This is all good stuff, I have an orange 07 SF (built in 05 but sat in a shop for 18 months). I am well pleased with the bike, it always gets a few glances and questions when I am out on it. It only has 10,000 miles as I have other bikes. Reading the other entries I will check all my engine bolts and my hugger but have not noticed any of those problems myself.

I have had the following problems:
1. Starter safety relay failed after 1 week, replaced under warranty.
2. Mirrors flaked off at edges, replaced under warranty but no fitted as its not getting any worse.
3. Rubber tab on side lights split off when changing a bulb, not replaced.
4. MZ badge on rear hump fell off, replaced under warranty.
5. RH coil failed 20 miles from home so I have probably lost my cats as well.
6. Battery replaced with Yuasa as the original was getting a bit tired, (probably due to sitting in a shop for 18 months).
7. Have added a 3/4" wooden spacer to the side stand as the bike leans over a bit too far in my opinion.
8. I am currently re-routing the wiring to stop the headlight from comming on and allow me to use the light switch and decide if I want lights or not.

So apart from changing oil and tyres it has been pretty good. I am starting to build up a small list of replacement parts which are available from other manufactrers so would be interested if anyone else has already started?

Having only seen 1 other sf and 1 s on the road these must be one of the rarest bikes in the UK, unless you live in the Bristol area and would like to show me yours?

Mick

Re: Living With An MZ 1000S/SF/ST: Reliability/Faults

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:27 pm
by LWS66
MJ310 wrote:
I have had the following problems:

8. I am currently re-routing the wiring to stop the headlight from comming on and allow me to use the light switch and decide if I want lights or not.


Mick



You can remove the daylight relay instead of messing with wiring (the relay makes the headlights come on when switching on the ignition, overiding the switch) Removing the relay enables the switch to operate like it was intended to: Lights off, pilots on, all lights on. Then you put the relay in the tool pouch for backup along with the extra fuses. Simple as that!