by Puffs » Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:28 am
Indeed, the clearance required very much depends on the piston. Just asking for 'a clearance' is a little bit like asking 'what size shoes does a man need?'. Some piston manufacturers indicate the desired clearance on the crown (for instance as "SP 0.07", meaning 0.07mm Spiel = play = clearance).
More specifically, the required clearance depends on the thermal expansion characteristics of the alloy used for the piston, and on the shape of the piston. Under use, the piston is much warmer than the barrel, and the crown is warmest, and therefore expands most. A piston that is too cylindrical will require a higher clearance. It is also correct that it does not matter where you measure the diameter of the bore, but if you are measuring clearance (with a feeler gauge) you have to measure it at the skirt - the widest point of the piston.
The other important factor of course is the size (=bore). All other things being equal, a bigger thing expands more, hence needs more clearance. I have never understood why a 300 should have less clearance than a 250, but I know that some sources indicate so.
I would have loved to try an Almot (which is K20 alloy) with 0.06mm clearance, and that is what I asked the shop for, but they let their own opinion prevail and made it 0.07mm. That works too & is less sensitive to running in, but of course it's equivalent to having run some 5k miles with it. If you want to make many miles before your next piston + rebore, best choose a top quality piston with a tighter tolerance, but that will require careful running-in.
The tighter tolerance of 0.04mm as indicated for instance in Haynes pertains to an original piston, is IMO probably correct, and requires very careful running in. But I'd suspect that if you give a Berta or a RAM such a tight tolerance, it'll seize on you.
edit:
... but maybe not - just saw this thread is actually a year old & started before I joined....