Fork Seals... A How to

Vehicles equipped with the 500 cc Rotax engine

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Fork Seals... A How to

Postby hmmmnz » Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:21 am

sorry this took so long, i missed a couple of pics so ill add them in later.

another very easy job on the mz, i keep being pleasantly surprised with the mz, on how easy some of the jobs turn out to be,
by far and away the easiest fork seals ive done

gear required;
basic socket set (metric)
allen keys (5 and 6mm)
a 24mm spanner/ socket or crescent.. multi grips :D
a flat blade screw driver

ok


1.jack the bike up, i just used a car jack and the side stand, (you may have a center stand) but it was stable enough
[Image

2. unbolt the brakes
Image

3. unbolt the mudguard (i think mine is a jawa item??) leave the guard in place untill the wheel is out
Image

4. undo the axle clamp bolt on the right hand side (as you look at the bike(oppisite side to the brake))
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5. unbolt axle nut, and push the axle through
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6. remove the wheel and mudguard
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7. unbolt the fork brace
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8. lift the plastic cap on the top of the forks
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9. undo the top fork cap
Image
Image

10. loosen the bottom fork clamp
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11. slide the fork free.

ok now the for is free, remove the spacer and spring, and drain the oil from the fork

12. loosen the fork protector brace and they will slide free of the sanction and stay on the fork leg

13. with the fork upside down, you'll see a 10mm nut, with a notch in the bolt for a screw driver,
Image
hopefully you won't have to use the screw driver, use your socket and unbolt the nut, if the nut grabs on the bolt then you will need a long socket with a hole in the center for the screw driver to hold the bolt still, while you unscrew the nut..
i didn't need to do that, the bolt came straight off for me,
Image

14. now remove the fork tube, it will slide right out, watch out for the 2 springs and the little cap that are at the bottom of the fork tube
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15. remove the seal clip
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16. with a pair of long nose pliers, remove the fork seal, dont be afraid to wreck it, its buggered remember
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and thats it, re-assemble at will, you can put the fork seal in first then the tube (the way i prefer)
or put the tube in and then slide seal over it,

when you go to slide the tube into the leg, you'll need to assemble the 2 springs and the washers
Image Image Image Image
don't forget the fibre sealing washerImage

slide the tube over the sanction
Image

and bolt it back together, in the reverse order :D and fill with desired amount of oil..
f knows what that is, i got 285mls out of the good fork leg, but i suspect thats not enough... that'll require further investigation :D


and here are some pics to determine the size of oil seal required (although it is written on the seal it self :D )

Image Image Image
Last edited by hmmmnz on Sun Feb 21, 2010 3:26 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Fork Seals... A How to

Postby comanche91 » Sat Feb 20, 2010 8:48 pm

Thanks very much for the writeup. I haven't done this before, so why do you need the calipers?
-Don
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Re: Fork Seals... A How to

Postby hmmmnz » Sun Feb 21, 2010 1:31 am

the verniers??
it was just to show you what size fork seals to order before you did the job, eg 35x47x7mm fork seals :D
or you'd be like me, with your bike up on blocks waiting for your seals to turn up :D
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Re: Fork Seals... A How to

Postby comanche91 » Sun Feb 21, 2010 2:13 am

Okay - that's what I thought. Thanks. (Already have the seals :-D )
-Don
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Re: Fork Seals... A How to

Postby DAVID THOMPSON » Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:53 pm

picture is package from my o-ring seal i used at the very top of the fork
on the top nuts
came from advanced auto parts in usa
and gives size so you can find it in other areas
if you live in a dead zone for parts i can send you some
but local source is probably best
dave
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o-ring for top nut on older mz forks
Dave 2002 MZ RT125+1995 Saxon Tour(500cc)
1997 MZ 660 Traveller+6/13/09 WV USA
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