MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi having problems with my traveller, runs great for couple of miles then dies. Back to the mechanic, carbs and other bits sorted so its down to electrics, fires up great, ticks over, but on a run under power, misfires and dies, replaced coil, plug cap, lead and eventually 2nd hand cdi Rund much smother but gets really hot - gold exhaust - so stopped that one. Does anyone have a cdi that I could buy or borrow. does anyone know where they can be repaired or bought? Any help would be great - thanks

drawing of wires relay 30 or 19 on mz drawings this relay causes lot of problems
the original is to small for the job

https://www.mzriders.com/viewtopic.php? ... dle#p44035

what country you in?

Since the CDI is part of the engine package supplied by Yamaha (?) might it be worth looking for a Yamaha item off a XTt660 ?

THE CDI NEEDS GOOD CLEAN POWER

my rt125 went nuts the tach was reading funny turns out the plug from regulator to the alternator was fried
as milted into a glob

i soldered it together and all is ok now that the plug is gone

problem with other boxes is wrong rev limits and most are as flaky as the one you have

john_pcb96 wrote:Hi having problems with my traveller, runs great for couple of miles then dies. Back to the mechanic, carbs and other bits sorted so its down to electrics, fires up great, ticks over, but on a run under power, misfires and dies, replaced coil, plug cap, lead and eventually 2nd hand cdi Rund much smother but gets really hot - gold exhaust - so stopped that one. Does anyone have a cdi that I could buy or borrow. does anyone know where they can be repaired or bought? Any help would be great - thanks

Was the `hidden` filter checked out? - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10435

this sounds like the probel i had years ago. It was probably a short in the wiring down around the neutral switch. Never found it as moving the wires to see what went where cured the problem and it has never reoccurred.

Last week iginition went a bit erratic as did the indicators. I had fitted a buzzer to the indicator circuit to indicate system was working and did not get left on. Getting older meant hearing reduced and I could not hear buzzer so replaced it with a LED light. This worked OK until the recent problem. checking through I realised the LED had shorted a bit and this caused the ignition problem, removing it solved problem. I am now back to having to try to remember to cancel indicators. However it does show that a small circuit fault can seem as if the ignition and the CDI unit might be at fault.

The first time around i changed the coil, stripped the carburetor, checked the tappets and was thinking it was the CDI until I fixed the problem without knowing what I had actually fixed.

Tramcard wrote:this sounds like the probel i had years ago. It was probably a short in the wiring down around the neutral switch. Never found it as moving the wires to see what went where cured the problem and it has never reoccurred.

Last week iginition went a bit erratic as did the indicators. I had fitted a buzzer to the indicator circuit to indicate system was working and did not get left on. Getting older meant hearing reduced and I could not hear buzzer so replaced it with a LED light. This worked OK until the recent problem. checking through I realised the LED had shorted a bit and this caused the ignition problem, removing it solved problem. I am now back to having to try to remember to cancel indicators. However it does show that a small circuit fault can seem as if the ignition and the CDI unit might be at fault.

The first time around i changed the coil, stripped the carburetor, checked the tappets and was thinking it was the CDI until I fixed the problem without knowing what I had actually fixed.

That reminds me of a similar (?) problem that I had on my Honda CX500 some years back. I had dropped the bike whilst riding in mud (and damn at 500lbs it is tough to get up when your feet are slipping too!), and I broke the front left indicator in the fall. The lens broke, and the bulb filament let go, and what's more the bult holder inside the indicator was rusty and had finally broken off in the shock of the fall. From that point on, I realised that the bike felt low on power. Even when I wasn't using the indicator (I didn't bother fixing it for a day or two), the bike just felt off. Took a long time to start, was reluctant and low on power to pull away. The bike uses a CDI system, powered by AC. When I did eventually replace the indicator bulb holder, bulb and put a new lens on it of course- the bike totally changed back into the machine it had been before! No one ever believed me (even on the CX500 forum- they dismissed my findings - the Little Fauntleroy's), but I can only deduce that there was some sort of shorting or 'electrical leak' affecting the performance of the CDI.

Very late I know but first time round twenty years back I bought some gear from a small independent Mz Skorpion dealer in Horbury. He raced and modified them and said he uses TRX/TDM cdi units and cuts the pink wire from the block as that’s the Rev limiter.