125 RT fork oil change

[Nobog]

Has anyone changed the fork oil in a RT125? Qty? I assume these are not real sophisticated units. Is there a drain hole under the axle or do I simply take them off, dump oil from the top and refill? or is ther more to it? Advice - info appreciated, Jim

[DAVID THOMPSON]

from shop manual 250cm\3 =1/4th L

per leg and there seems to be an allen head screw in bottom of fork leg

says change every 2 years

SAE 5W, BP Autram GM-MP OR BP Autram ATF

LET IT DRAIN WELL AND REFILL FROM TOP
THE SHOP MANUAL GIVES SO LITTLE DETAIL IT IS NOT WORTH POSTING THE PAGE AS A COPY

[Nobog]

I'll give that a try, thanks
Jim

[Chris Hunsicker]

If my memory serves me correctly, the drain is also the fill (just like the skorpion). It's at the top of the fork tube (what sticks out at the top of the triple tree).

I replaced with either 10 or 15 wt fork oil, as the forks are pretty squishy. Probably stiffer springs are the way to go, but I don't feel like spending the dough on this commuter.

[Chris Hunsicker]

The allen bolt at the bottom of forks like this (inside the bottom of the tube) is for dissasembling the forks do change fork seals. Usually you need an air compressor and an impact wrench to remove this bolt.

To change the fork oil, just remove forks from the tripple tree (loosen the drain/fill bolt first) pull out the springs, and dump the oil out by turning the tube upsidedown.

Its a pretty straighforward job, and I would think hard to screw up.

I've let fork oil go for years already, but on my track bike I change it once a year at least! It actually does make a difference.

Chris

[DAVID THOMPSON]

no way do i take the forks off to drain the oil
next time the gas tank is off and the oil is drained from the engine
i will test the jib crane in the work shop and just turn the whole
damn bike upside down

this is why you cant afford to have a shop work on your bike
it was designed to cost tooooo much to service properly
3 times as long to service forks as it should take