MZ/MuZ Riders

i started trying to use the choke now that the temps have dropped 20-30 degrees.

first 'notch' sounds absolutely no different from the Off position, and i have to keep the throttle slightly for 5 minutes to let it warm up.
the 2nd 'notch' causes the engine to rev up steadily for just under 2 seconds, followed by the engine stall.

after this, the engine doesn't start unless i remove the seat and cup the air intake, while hitting the starter.

is there any generic cause for this? what do i need to adjust?

the enrichment slide at the carb end of the cable may be sticking in the carb
it may need cleaned and these bikes are very fussy about bad gas
dave

DAVID THOMPSON wrote:the enrichment slide at the carb end of the cable may be sticking in the carb
it may need cleaned and these bikes are very fussy about bad gas
dave

sounds like yet another reason for me to attempt full carburetor clean out...

bad gas meaning low grade, or dirty?
i read somewhere on the board that these bikes barely 'sip' gas, would using higher grade gas help at all?

i use regular just needs to be clean no water
look at a wix fuel filter number 33067 its big and will work as a sediment bowl and keep water out of carb
but it is big on these bikes i think the plastic tanks make water from the humid air as temp changes
my traveller seems to be full of water all the time
dave

thanks dave, placed an order for one.

had problem getting my rt125 to start today would start but not stay running
took screw driver and opened drain on left side bottom rear of carb for a few seconds
and it took off and ran
i have the big wix filter on the 660 traveller need to get one for the rt
dave

this filter is BIG left is input right is out

well i found a motorcycle garage that is willing to clean out the carb, but insists that i have a spare "float valve" in case the one they end up finding during cleaning is etched. also suggested i try getting a float bowl gasket.

i cant find these exact terms in the parts list. can anyone speculate on what he might have meant?

also, i wondered if i should just buy a replacement carburetor so i searched for MIKUNI VM24 as stated in the manual, but everything i find looks very much different from what i have on the bike.

this is what i find easily:


this is what i have:



from mz-faber, i gather that the part number is actually Mikuni VM24/499
i found Mikuni VM24/489 but that STILL looks different.

Dave, what experience do you have with the carb from RT ? do you know if its interchangeable with anything else i can get states side?
is the part the mechanic talking about really prone to etching and needing replacement?

this one is simple and the part the shop wants is probably on the shelf
they just do not know what the suzuki or honda number is and i dont either
i would clean it my self with out taking the float out that way the part there talking about
will not be disturbed
mine just get a bunch of water in the bowl
dave

hey dave, got the filter today. it actually looks bigger in pictures than in real life. length wise its actually a tad shorter than the stock, but definitely thicker.
the nozzles are surprisingly narrow though. i'll have to replace the hoses i have with something much smaller to be able to tighten the clamps around these.
wont be dong that for a while though as i decided to attempt cleaning the carb myself, and replacing fuel.

do and learn
i like a pan with small compartments and put stuff in them in order
and put a board along the front edge of work bench to stop stuff from falling on the floor
dave

DAVID THOMPSON wrote:do and learn
i like a pan with small compartments and put stuff in them in order
and put a board along the front edge of work bench to stop stuff from falling on the floor
dave

am and loving it

my only reservation i had from diving into it myself was fear of breaking something due to ignorance and being unable to replace it States side.

anyway, got the carb out!

at first glance everything inside looks spotless clean. no 'gunk' or 'jello' in sight.
both the starter and main pin seem squeaky clean, so i'm not any where closer to understanding the choke funkiness.

i did not get into the bowl gasket yet - maybe tomorrow, but the first thing i noticed is that the idle mixture screw was 'out' more than i expected.
the manual advises it to be turned all the way in, and then unscrewed 1.5 - 2 turns.
here, it was out more like 4-4.5 turns.

any idea why someone would have it set that way?
and moe importantly, could this alone be responsible for the choke and throttle?

cleaned out the carb and have put it back on.
one question remains before i fill it up with new gas and put on the new fuel filter,
how tight should i make the hose clamps on both end of the carb?

when i was removing them, they were loose enough to actually let the carb swivel on its axis.
manual says 'not to over tighten' it as to not accelerate rubber erosion.
loose enough to swivel sounds like it may not be sealed enough and letting air sneak in. does that make sense?
should i make it tight enough to NOT swivel, but not any more tighter?

any insight to this is appreciated.

They need to be tight enough to grip the carb,
but not too loose that the carb swivels, needs to be air tight remember.

Hi,
Read the following post about fitting nylon clips. I've fitted them to my RT125.

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3588

Can't remember what sizes I used though. Might have a look and post later.

David.

Hi please can you tell me how to remove the seat?. Thanks