MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi folks, just fitted the 150 kit to my RT 125 and its running beautifully so far. I have heard a number of things about starter's getting buggered and head gaskets blowing so we'll see. But I have to say it takes the RT up one hell of a notch. It just gives more power across the board and makes it a great bike! I also previously dropped my front sprocket to a 15 and and am running a Takegawa exhaust, and it all makes fr a greta ride.
One question though does anyone know if or where timing marks are on the flywheel or cam gears? We slipped a tooth on the lower gear and had to feel our way back into the right timing.
For future reference soes anyone know?

Many thanks, and will keep you posted, but I must say that if there are no issues as listed above it seems to be the way to go!

hello

this dealer has an adjustment kit for the cam
and may be able to tell you how to check to make sure
you have it right
http://www.ksportmotorcycles.com/mz125_kit.html
his email address is on the site
also the parts book shows tools to do this
parts book page FS32 I 14
8999200000 crankshaft locking bolt(locks the crank at tdc)
and
8999206000 camshaft adjusting tool

but the shop manual i have is not very clear as what to do with them
and i have not been there to do it myself ....

thanks Dave,

any idea what the tool might be though? Just want to know what i am buying for $169... I have emailed them though and hopefully they can shed a bit of light on the situ.

one is a bolt that locks the crank

and the cams are locked in place by 2 pins

i think they have 4mm threds on the ends of them and screw in to the
ends of the cams some how

Hi fellow Mz-ites,

anyone ever used the kit found on this website.

http://www.ksportmotorcycles.com/mz125_kit.html

I wrote to the company and recieve4d this reply in regards to a request for some more info.

"The cam timing on a mz125 is set by a european method which requires a crankshaft tdc locking tool and cam positioning pins.
The kit I have comes with these and is reusable, the cam timing pins are recalibrated for the optimum cam timing.
The standard cam timing kit from MZ is not correct for the best performance,that is why a standard bike has no midrange and makes cruising in 6th almost impossible.
Once installed the bike has much better performance thru out the rpm range.
The kit actually gives more perfomance than a 150cc kit and is a must when you install one.
Cam timing normally can really can only accomplished by removing engine and making the needed degreeing tools then trying all the combinations of cam timings possible on a twin cam engine.
The kit saves you many hours and also comes with a kit for the carb and detailed instructions."

if anyone has purchased or used this timing kit let me know, plus any other thoughts would be great.

I can't see how the cams can be retimed without altering the chain that drives them unless the cam gear wheels are bolted on through oval holes. This may of course be true as I haven't had the head off mine yet.
I know that the standard MZ stuff works by locking the crank at TDC and then using straight pins into the cam, which are butted up to the head (on the left as I recall).
Will reread the workshop manual and see if I can make anymore sense of it

Cheers, Mike

Ah, I think I understand how it's done now
The cam gears are only held on by a central locking bolt so that enables the adjustment. The holes in the camshafts for the timing pins are on the opposite end from the gears, so when retiming the cam you loosen the gears while the timing holes are parallel to the left of the head, insert the ksports pins (which must be slightly offset, their instructions must cover this) which moves the cams slightly with respect to the gears, retighten the cam gears in their new position and bob's your uncle. Job Done

This is not from experience but I can't see how else it can be done

Hope this helps , Mike

thanks for the thoughts Mike,

I am in consideration as to whether to go ahead, but if I do pick this up I will give a detailed account of how it goes. As I have a 150 kit I would like to now work on the running level of the engine so I am thinking I will probably go ahead.

I am also thinking of running a 28 mm carb, but again we'll have to see,
one toy at a time.