MZ/MuZ Riders

Hi

I've recently purchased a TS 125 from a friend and it needs some TLC.

After running recently and passing its MOT with flying colours, I decided to replace the seat cover which was split. On removal of the left hand side panel I got a bit of a shock. The battery is a corroded mess which looks like its been over charging judging by the way the paint on the inside of the cover has been removed. The battery tray is also very rustly / fragile, with the battery held in place by a miniature bungee cord.

The wiring is in a bit of a state and the act of removing the cover has now stopped the bike from running, since no lights appear on the speedo and it won't start on a kick.

I purchased a new loom as a precaution and I've got a new fuse box, nos mechanical reg and ignition switch.

My plan is to replace the ratty wiring, fuse box etc and to fit a new battery. I need some advice on a couple of things.

Battery Tray
As this is attached to the frame and not a separate part is there any way to replace it other than to make one up and weld it to the frame? Does anyone have a spare one kicking about?

Wiring
Not having taken an MZ TS apart before, can anyone offer any tips on how to replace the wiring from the Dynamo? I've taken the small cover off but the wires that run to the reg disappear into the darkness, and emerge some where between the engine and the frame. Is there another cover to remove? If so how does it come off and is there anything I should be aware of? The Hyanes book of lies isn't much use on this.

Also has anyone rewired one of these? Can anyone offer any advice?

Over Charging
If I had over charging, is it likely to be due to poor wiring from the dynamo to the reg or a fault with the resistor coil that's fixed to the side of the dynamo. Haynes advises that this should read 4.5 ohms

Many thanks

Matt

Haynes advises that this should read 4.5 ohms

ditch the haynes English riders refer to it as a little book of lies
and i hide my one on bmw so people do not read it when in my work shop
dave

and sell the old style reg on if its new
get a new solid state one and be done with the problems it can cause

ps i think your mot inspector took a quick look and went to lunch

DAVID THOMPSON wrote:ps i think your mot inspector took a quick look and went to lunch

MOT's in this country are rather an issue of "Does it work? Great!" rather than an issue of how it works. Indeed, the only reason a car is started in an MOT is to check emissions, not that it actually works correctly or safely.

For that reason, a motorcycle engine does not have to be started in a motorcycle MOT, since motorcycles aren't tested for emissions, thus even a motorcycle with a broken engine can pass an MOT.

On that note, electrical equipment is tested on the same quote as above, Indeed, if your indicators or lights are not working and you cannot be bothered to sort the wiring, taking the lights off alltogether would be passable on the basis that "If it is not there, how can it be tested?"

Likewise, MOT inspectors are not allowed to pry behind things. For example, motorcycle forks. If the forks have gaitors, the examiner is not allowed to lift the gaitors to see if the seals are leaking. Thus it is rather an odd occurance that a bike without any oil in the forks at all, may pass an MOT because all the oil there might be has already leaked away. Never mind that it doesn't provide very good suspension, it will still pass.

That is the reason why so many 'bodges' can happen, and you will not often see a motorcycle in the UK without some sort of bodge, unless it is a new motorcycle. The most susceptable thing to be bodged on a motorcycle is electrics, and this comes back to the examiner not being allowed to pry into a place he cannot see without touching or removing something and that is the reason your motorcycle, with poor wiring and a battery which has seen better days, can still pass an MOT without any issue whatsoever.

good lesson in how they do it here
except the guy at one shop always wants to ride it around the building
and i do not let him near mine
as i am the only one that rides mine
dave
my other moto is i do not give test rides unless its for sale

Well had a productive Easter weekend tinkering on the bike.

Fitted a new Varta 6v 12Ah battery in place of the knackered "wind" 6v 7Ah.

Fitted new wiring from the dynamo to the reg and from the battery to the reg and fusebox. Cleaning fusebox and fitting new fuses.

Cleaned out the carb, fuel tap sump, fitted new fuel pipe and filter.

Replaced front brake shoes

Replaced clutch cable

Fitted new seat cover.

New spark plug and lead.

The bike now starts, runs and idles without showing a generator warning light and I've got to know the machine much better. I know know that new chain gaiters and a speedo cable will need to be added to the shopping list as these are both past their prime. I'll probably need to change the rear brake shoes too. Is rear wheel removal straight forward or is there a lot of faffing with chain tension required?

might want to look at a parts book before you start

my 4 stroke saxon tour rear end is about the same
and it was a bit strange to any other i have worked on

i am still trying to figure what size the axle and right side nut are

the axle does not go all the way through and have a nut on the end
the nut on the right tightens the chain wheel in place to set the chain tension
then hold it when you tighten or loosen the left side
the chain ring and housing hangs on the rear right swinging arm just like the
rear on a drive shaft bike
its nice till it comes time to service it ..then its fun to figure out with no instruction book

i am getting ready to do a complete check and clean of mine
looks like i will need to find if the chain has a master link
so i can take it all apart and do a complete inspection ..clean and lube
i am second owner so i do not think it has ever been off since new
dave
pictures and details if i can get the "round tooo it to work" soon

Removing the rear wheel on a tiddler TS is easier if you adjust the rear brake on the backplate adjuster to give you maximum free play at the pedal, then disengage the cable from the side cover and brake pedal. Pull the cable out complete with the rear wheel.

Chain tension is easy, the sprocket and chain cover stay bolted to the swinging arm. Unless, that is, you're changing the chain gaiters or chain...

Fitting the chain through the gaiters is incredibly difficult until you make a special tool from a straightened out wire coat hanger with a 1/4 inch bend in the end. Pass that through the new gaiter, catch the chain on the hook and pull it back through the gaiter.

Another thing that's a bit of a pain is getting the front of the chain gaiters hooked over the side cover (which you need to remove to remove and refit the chain). I find needle nose pliers, a small flat blade screwdriver and swearing helps.

Finally a warning. Don't move the bike or turn the back wheel while you've got the chain link out and the chain still on the bike. It'll make a quick exit through the rear of the chain case. Don't ask how I know this...

arry_b wrote:Removing the rear wheel on a tiddler TS is easier if you adjust the rear brake on the backplate adjuster to give you maximum free play at the pedal, then disengage the cable from the side cover and brake pedal. Pull the cable out complete with the rear wheel.

Chain tension is easy, the sprocket and chain cover stay bolted to the swinging arm. Unless, that is, you're changing the chain gaiters or chain...

Fitting the chain through the gaiters is incredibly difficult until you make a special tool from a straightened out wire coat hanger with a 1/4 inch bend in the end. Pass that through the new gaiter, catch the chain on the hook and pull it back through the gaiter.

Another thing that's a bit of a pain is getting the front of the chain gaiters hooked over the side cover (which you need to remove to remove and refit the chain). I find needle nose pliers, a small flat blade screwdriver and swearing helps.

Finally a warning. Don't move the bike or turn the back wheel while you've got the chain link out and the chain still on the bike. It'll make a quick exit through the rear of the chain case. Don't ask how I know this...

Thanks for the coat hanger tip. New Gaiters are on order so that's on the to do list. Chain and sprockets looked healthy which is a good start so new gaiters will keep the weather off them.

Hopefully my new indicator switch will arrive soon as this broke off last week and was lost on the road. I blame cold weather leading to premature plastic fatigue.

Does anyone have any recommendations on new exhausts? I notice that prices for the silencers seems to vary wildly, is this due to the quality of the chrome or do some suppliers like to charge an arm because they think they can? I've already sent one back because it was a ETZ one rather than a TS one.