MZ/MuZ Riders

A couple of questions have come up during the dismantling of my 2/3rds of an ETZ 125 (no I don't know the exact model designation I'm afraid, I just got a partially dismantled bike dumped on me best way sometimes) Aside from these two little glitches - oh and the brake caliper - it's nearly completely dismantled now. Woo Hoo!

1) Generator cover (RHS of engine), contains the mechanism that works the clutch via a pin through the output shaft...???!!!! Whatever those Gemans were taking when they designed that I'd like some please. Anyway, is it possible to take this mechanism off the cover? I can't see an obvious way to go about it and don't want to hit an old cast ally component too hard...

This could all just be left in situ, but it'd be good to be able to dismantle it for repainting of the cover, and proper greasing etc of the worm drive.
Oh, and yes, it's all been cleaned up and I've taken the clutch cable and spring off... The picture was taken pretty much as soon as it came off the bike.

2) Pillion pegs. I just can't figure this out at all! Obviously they can be dismantled (the other one has been, as it was held together with a nut and bolt, which I can understand... I think that probably happened in a spill though, judging by the way everything's a bit mullered).


Any hints or tips gratefully received!

Hello Anna!

1) The mechanism (lifting arm and worm gear) are mounted to pressure and slightly edged.Rust , if you dismantling possibly you must buy a new two spare parts, in my opinion a lot of work for nothing: clean well, use adhesive tape to repainting and after grease. Is a solid mechanism.

2) Too much rust. If no possible other opcion cut the nut and bolt with a "blade"(sorry I don´t remember exact word in english) for metal and after mount a new nut and bolt. Passenger footrest are made in soft metal you can try repair it...

Un saludo
Best regards,
Manuel

Looks like a clevis pin on the footrest in the pic, if so this can be drifted out if you really want to take the peg off (why though? Respraying frame?) though equally it looks like it could be a rivet (bad eyes!) though I doubt that as you'd already know so my guess is clevis pin.

As far as the clutch mech. goes, manumensa has pretty much covered it all. If it ain't broke, why try to fix it?
(unless you're going for a concours finish I suppose...

Thanks for the responses guys!

I haven't quite decided where I'm going re quality of final finish (I wasn't originally aiming for concours - there hardly seems much point with such workmanlike bikes), but I am doing everything with an eye to re-painting, re-finishing and generally rustproofing and sparkling...

So it's a "leave it alone" on the clutch mechanism thing then, and a "leave it alone unless you're really fussed" on the pillion peg. Good advice methinks, and advice I'll apply to other parts of the bike as I go along too, I'm sure!

If needs be I can drill out the pillion peg, but I usually make more mess than is warranted if I get my hands on a drill, so I'll leave that until/if I decide I really need to do that.

from the photo. the way the clutch works ...the area of the worm gear needs fresh good grease yearly so the wear on the alloy case is as low as possible
we use a grease called moly paste
dave

Anna wrote:If needs be I can drill out the pillion peg, but I usually make more mess than is warranted if I get my hands on a drill, so I'll leave that until/if I decide I really need to do that.

I assume it's not a clevis/roll pin then? (basically a tube with a slit down one side, slightly larger than the hole it fits, thus holding itself in by the flex of the metal.) If so then you should be able to tap it out using maybe a broken drill bit/blunt nail of the appropriate diameter to sit on top of the pin.

Even if it is a rivet, it does not look to be a blind rivet & therefore (if it has a hollow centre) you would only need to drill off one end & then tap the remainder through in the way described for the clevis pin.

Best of luck with the rebuild, I feel from your attitude that you will end up with a really nice bike.

TS2Fifty wrote:... you should be able to tap it out using maybe a broken drill bit/blunt nail of the appropriate diameter to sit on top of the pin.

...
Best of luck with the rebuild, I feel from your attitude that you will end up with a really nice bike.

Ah, I'll try that! It does look like one of those roll pin thingys.

I might end up with a really nice bike, but at current rate of progress it's going to be a long time coming!! Didn't do anything this weeked at all. And we're away for the bank holiday. Hey ho, these things happen in their own good time - no point rushing them. Gotta keep the ying and the yang in balance dontcha know.

True, true... Good things come to those who wait... (Crikey, two beer ad. straplines in one post! wonder what's on my mind? )

Reminds me, I must have a look at getting those fork seals soon - been weeks since I rode the TS!