Aftermarket cans

[tuxracer]

Hi guys,

I'm looking at changing the cans or perhaps the full system on my bike for a better sound and a little more performance. Not that it’s slow but you can never have too much horsepower.

I know some of you have used the Sebring cans but what other makes are you using and what do you think of them? Also did you need to re-map or just fit and go?

The most cost effective ones I can find in the UK are Remus as advertised by this company - http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/frame- ... ranges.asp They are about £420 including the link pipes. Not sure I'm completely sold on the style but the price and quality are good.

Or I thought of using the Blueflame cans below and having link pipes made for them, all in it would be around the £500 mark.

http://www.blueflameperformance.com/bik ... %20Tip.JPG

They other alternative would be a full system from the likes of Zorstec or Mercury race systems which would get rid of the cats and let the bike really breath. I spoken to both companies and they are looking at around £700, which does not sound to bad.

If I go the full system route I think it would need a re-map, so has anybody used a Power Commander or the Tuneboy system? If so what sort of results did you get and were there any problems?

Cheers

Ian

[LWS66]

Ian, You might give "MZ-Faber" a look. In Germany, they list quite a few 2-2 and 2-1 systems:

http://www.mz-faber.de/MZWeb/catalog.aspx?cat=01efe061-9e18-4a9c-b909-6ac3a8283db0&subcat=228bbbf9-e09c-4409-95de-5bd1da305ce9

http://www.mz-faber.de

[tuxracer]

yeah I had a look at their site and there is a lot of good stuff. However my grasp of the German language is only slightly worse than the exchange rate at the moment. I could get past the language barrier but cant influence the exchange rate so its cheaper to buy in the UK for now.

I actualy like the idea of having a full system made by Zorstec (http://www.zorstec.com/contact.htm) as they have the equipment to make the whole system without any welds. It would give a much cleaner look to the system and with no welds should be better for gas flow. Unfortunately their a long way from me, so not the easiest thing to arrange.

Cheers

Ian

[LWS66]

I did'nt realize the exchange rate was crap for those in Britain too! It really bad here in the states, glad I got my pipes when I did....but and even then it was not good! You probably are better off doing what your thinking about doing...or another "idea" , a while back, here in the states, Curtis Fisher (now defunct MZ dealer) came up with a way to fit aftermarket cans to the pipes, after cutting the stock cans off at the weld, and by heating the pipe, putting a slight bend in it so that the cans would slip right on. That was a few years ago, do a search and check it out. Then you could use any cans you wanted, really......those Blue Flames you have over there are really nice, pretty trick the way they are adjustable for sound.

[tuxracer]

I'm afraid the problems in the US are spreading and having an effect here as well and I think the world economy in general is in for a bumpy ride. The cost of living over here has rocketed over the last few months, petrol is now around $10 a gallon this side of the pond and still climbing!

I did already think about chopping the original cans off but I usually put my bikes back to standard when I sell them and if I go this route it will cost me in the long run. I've found that you get more of your cash back by e-baying the extras and selling the bike as standard, being a canny Scots lad I like to get my moneys worth

I'll probably go with something like the Blue flame cans with custom link pipes. Still would like to hear from anyone whose modded their bike and what they think of it before I do anything though.

Thanks for the tips.

[m4panther]

Tux,

If you're going to spend the money get a 2-2 system. If you plan to get a power commander you will be able to have both cylinders mapped as opposed to one map programmed into both cylinders.
I like my sebring cans. I didn't have to do anything after the install besides drilling the rivet off that holds the baffle, sound restrictor or what ever you want to call it.

Some people say that for fuel injection, when you make changes like intake or exhaust you sould disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer.The computer will supposedly remap itsself within 200 miles. I don't know how true this is when it comes to this bike.

You should change the exhaust. The sound is fantastic and the stock cans are extremely heavy

google translation works pretty darn good for us non dual language types<--- I used this when I placed my order from them

http://translate.google.com/translate?u ... n&ie=UTF-8

[tuxracer]

Did you notice much difference in performance after you fitted the Sebring cans or does it just save weight and sound nicer? Have you done any other performance mods?

Your right about the ecu's on some bikes needing a reset for minor mods as I know KTM and Buell are like that. A friend of mine had a Buell and if you changed exhausts it would run rough for a few miles and then reset itself. It only seems to work for fairly minor changes though, so any major work still needs a re-map.

If I can get a full system made without to much hassle I think I'll go that route, as getting rid of the cat's is bound to unleash a load more power If not it'll just be a straight forward can swap.

As for the translation services like google etc, they do work on a very basic level but some of the translations still make me smile.

[LWS66]

Ian,

I've got the Sebring Twister's also, but I've kept the baffles in (I removed the rivets to see how they sounded, as well as how it fueled, they come with screws so you can easily put them back in/take out) I've opened up the airbox lid, am running Denso iridium plugs, and changed the gearing. I pretty much did this all at the same time, and even though I'm sure a Power Commander would help, I'm of the mindset that I really don't want to muck about with the electronics and end up having something foul up....and mainly, I don't want to put it on a dyno and go through repeated floggings to have the commander set up properly. I'm not after maximum horsepower with it anyways. There just is'nt any definative tuning knowledge or sources for anything over here, everything is done/built in Germany. If money were no object
Probably just paranoid, but it runs like gangbusters the way it is now....smooth and strong throughout the rev range, and lifts/lofts the front wheel quite easily vs. stock. Like Panther said, the stock cans are heavy, and any switch will be worth the reduced weight.

[tuxracer]

I know what you mean about not wanting to screw it up, its easy to get carried away with modding your bike and end up with something worse than standard. More torque and a smoother motor are preferable to max horsepower, as you just cant use it most of the time.

What sort of mods did you make to your air box and what gearing are you running?

As you guys seem happy enough with your bikes, I think I'll keep it simple at the moment rather than risk messing it up and loosing riding time during the summer. However come the long winter days when ridings not much fun who knows what might happen

Cheers

Ian