New Forest MZ

[awac]

[color=#0000FF]Hello all, Just saying hello. I am building a 1970 ES250/2 Trophy with a TS250/1 engine. I will pop a few photo's on when I have time, and the connection (I am on a dongle in the middle of nowhere, and get a signal....but very, very slow!)

[BBSparky]

Welcome , im just down the road in warsash. Look forward to seeing some pics of your project.

Marc

[awac]

Hi Marc and thanks for the welcome. Here are my external engine mounts, not everyone's cup of tea but they answer the problem of being able to mount any MZ engine into the chassis. I did play around with the original top engine mount, but it looked to cluttered and was a very tight fit (see an excellent write up of a Trophy project at www.starfield181.co.uk). Will write some more later as I have to go and pick up some more MZ bits, I am sure you will all understand! LOL

[awac]

Right back from picking up a few bits, now now where was I? Ah yes, had a local machine shop make me the mounts, 40x40x40mm with a 30mm ID bore for the Land rover deadpan bushes that I have used as Anti-Vibration mounts (why Land rover? You can get the bits anywhere, they are tough and cost 3.64 for two, with postage! Oh bike manufactures please take note...). I also asked the machine shop to machine a vertical radius of 40mm 2.5mm from the ID bore, they machined one of the blocks with a horizontal radius before realising the mistake (after looking at the drawing which accompanied a bush to aid them) and then machined a vertical radius...hmmm...(I even had to wait while they honed the bore to fit the bush I supplied them)...I had to fill the bottom one with weld, and whilst solid now, I will have to spend a little time before paint goes on building up a little more weld and cleaning to enhance the finish. The reason for all this work is that the original 4 speed engine has two metalastic bushes held in shear underneath. The engines after this only retained the offside internal thread to hold the exhaust clamp. It is possible to tap a new nearside thread but means a lot of extra work if I ever want to put an exchange engine in. The engine plates are a eBay find for a couple of pounds, and what luck! They are exactly the correct space apart and have a slight bend which allows them to stand proud of the frame, I could not have made them better! I think they look quite funky myself, maybe a steampunk style coming on? They are I am told Aprilia 650 engine plates by the eBayer, can anyone confirm?

The next step is to fit the footrests that I have just been and picked up, so I can check they clear the engine in its position. Once that is done I can fit the exhaust which I got brand new for 53 euros from Ost2rad.de, which when you look at what people are charging for used heaps of rubbish it is remarkable, they charge a flat rate of 11 euros postage to the UK, (so buy some other bits while you are there), and it came within days, in fact I was amazed how quick and efficient they were, right sales plug over for them unless they want to send me a discount card and I will ramble on all day (Go on admit it, that Led Zepp song went through your head when I said that eh?)

I have also just picked up the original engines manifold and carb which is straight and 28mm, compared to the Supa's bend (goes to the opposite of the air box entrance)and 30mm. I will try it on over the next couple of days and make an assessment if I should just put the K&N on the supa's set up or fit the air box. After that I will connect the engine up to a dead loss electrics and see if it will fire up, I will be going solid state regulator not mechanical when wiring time comes, and probably LED lights where I can.

If you are still awake, (well done) then you will understand that it is a long term project and I work more in the summer than winter, so don't expect to see rapid development, as I am just awaking from my winter slumber to go searching the forest for cash and berries...LOL. Ring,ding,ding,Comrades....

[awac]

Land rover deadpan bushes used as Anti-Vibration mounts

[awac]

Side view of es with TS exhaust placed on to check fit. Not bad just the exhaust bracket under engine needs fettling to make fit, as one bolt in as yet, will try in a couple of days as crawling on the floor today is a bit cold!

[awac]

As you can see, the TS carb goes one way and the es carb goes to other...this leaves you with a choice to either put on the es carb and manifold, but it needs to be filed or a K&N style filter fitted on, or.....a different carb altogether, which is slightly slimmer....if I use a K&N type I am thinking the air box will make a great battery box etc

[awac]

Sorry loading pics up one by one, but really slow connection and just crashes if I try more than one at the moment.
And here is the es carb. You will see that it has been filed by its previous owner, I just bought it off a chap who had started to put a supa 5 into the es but did not complete, I was lucky to find the manifold, not seen any more for sale as of yet. So not had real time to offer it up yet but you can see the manifold is much straighter than the TS manifold.

The engine goes in very easy as the rear mounts are the same, and it is good to have the engine position in line for the chain to back wheel.The big list for modifications is as far as I am aware is this:

Front mounts (only one underneath the Supa 5).
Gear change lever (it hits the foot rest bar, original is curved).
Carburettor and air box.
Speedo drive (es driven from engine, Supa from rear wheel, so will need rear wheel sprocket complete, prob best to replace whole rear wheel as cush drive rubber is different).
Rev counter braket (if you want one as es did not have one)

Any more I will let you know...

[awac]

View of original es engine mounts on which two metalastic rubber bushes held the engine in place, you can also see the surviving mount point now used as an exhaust mount point.

[radiograf]

What I'm about to say may sound stupid, but did you try fitting the TS manifold upside down, so it points to the right?

[awac]

I did consider it! In fact it might still be an option, however, the manifold is shaped and narrows internally towards the bottom, now I think this will have a negative effect on the intake port. The other possibility is to have it filled with weld and filed out to shape? Perhaps I could make a living from selling modified TS intake manifolds.....LOL. Hmmm. Will have a play in a couple of days as I have to go and do some work...Boo...

[radiograf]

How about making a new manifold from a flat plate, a piece of pipe angled to suit, and attach the carb by a rubber collar and two jubilee clips, as BMW ( you know that other German motorcycle maker!) did on the old air head models?

[awac]

You know, that sounds the best idea to date, simple and cheap, and effective. Just like BMW's, well simple and effective maybe...Thanks for the thought RG

[Baggy-trousers]

A belated welcome to you! (haven't been on here for a while) Good luck with your project, all the best from just down the road!

[awac]

Thank you BT.

I have put this up for sale on eBay for two reasons. I have just acquired a CZ (Gasp I hear! LOL) which has a lot of memories for me, and I do not have the space for two projects at the moment. Sad but that's how it is. If your interested have a look. Ebay Item number: 130659387651