Another MZ Etz 125 question. Idle problem

[tony211289]

Hay guys. Another little question. My mz etz 125 runs and rides but it doesn't edle very well or at all. Starts 1-3 kicks but if i dnt keep reving it, it cuts out. Would this be a problem with the carb adjusting? Or maybe the throttle cable is too lose? any ideas? The PO did have to unbolt the handlebars in order to fit it into the van.

Iv never worked on a bike so i thought id ask around first, a safer choice

All replies welcome. Look forward to hearing from u.

[radiograf]

Is the choke lever fully forward, as if the choke is closed it will cause problems at tickover when the engine is warm.

[tony211289]

only had the bike for a week so im still familiarising myself with all the switches. The choke lever slides back on its own after i push it forward. I thought that was weird myself since it kinf of contredicts the whole point of a choke. Obvously its not supposed to do that?

[radiograf]

No it isn't, I would check the routing of your cables to ensure that they are free.
Incidently I find the best starting procedure when the bike is fully cold is as follows:
Ignition off,
petrol on,
open choke fully,
kick engine over twice,
close choke,
ignition on.
kick engine over.
It should then start first or second kick (or third or forth if she's feeling temperametal!)

[tony211289]

Yeah it does get a bit tempermental on a cold day. Most of the time take about 2 kicks to start. Thanks for that little routine Ill keep that in mind

[stephendacosta]

So, after checking the cable routing, check to see if there is a way to increase friction in the lever assembly. Might be just a screw need tightening.
The idle would not be a cable too loose. The idle adjustment screw holds the slide in the carb at the proper level; it is the first thing to adjust; screw in to go higher in RPM. If the problem persists, the air mixture screw might be out of adjustment.
There is a starting point on motorcycles(different for each type of bike) that is somewhere between 1 &1/4 turns out from full in to 2 &1/2 turns out. this means you locate the low RPM air mixture screw, run it in(be sure to count how many turns it takes to seat gently so that you can return it to that setting if things get worse), and screw it out to the appropriate start point. After warm-up, adjust the screw to obtain the maximum RPM and then screw it back in a quarter of a turn, so it is not so lean(can overheat at idle if it is too lean).
Good luck, I hope some of this might help---Steve

[tony211289]

Thats some very good advice steeve. Thanks. I suspect the problem is actualy something minimal like the lack of friction on the choke lever. But if things get worse then the advice is priceless right there.

Thankyou muchly

[webhead]

best thing would be take carb off clean it with carb cleaner blow out all the jets then you know thats clean and working , air mixture out 2 turns thats 2 full turns not halfs.

make sure your air filter isnt blocked ,make sure your gaskets on manifold are ok, check plug clean it.

then try and start it if it runs and dies turn idle up until it does idle , if it idles too fast but stays going, then timing

if you bike on fast idle suddenly dies then crank seals need replacing easy job on these.

also check your points gap spark gap timing ,change condensor just incase as they like buggering these up. if its all hunky dory then i would point towards crank seals remember there old and i dont expect anyone has changed them there cheap there easy to replace and it guarantees it will start and idle first kick.