new member has bought MZ TS 125 LUXUS

[jacquesvins]

Hi Guys, before joining you had already helped me out...
Bought a very original MZ TS 125 1986 LUXUS, currently a non-runner, but not for long.... Clock reads 11000 miles
Bought a Haynes manual for it and it mentions nothing about its unique ignition key system in the headlight - immediately found the info I needed in your forum - so thanks for that.
Chain is missing possibly what lead to bike being left to stand as I have read its not that easy to replace - compared to many other chain driven bikes...
I live in Ruislip, 18 miles outside of London - happy to hear from others with same bike and would welcome any tips as to what to look out for prior to trying to start her up.....
Also have a Yamaha DT 125 which I rebuilt a few years ago - goes really well and looks good too...
Cheers, Jacques.

[arry_b]

Hi Jacques,

The secret tip for chain replacement is to use a straightened out wire coat hanger to drag it through the chain gaiters.

Remove the gaiters, drag the chain through it with the coat hanger front to rear. Feed the chain through the chain case - in at the top and fish it out at the bottom. Pull the chain through the lower gaiter and connect it up at the front sprocket. Lube the chain with grease rubbed in with your fingers. Refit the engine side cover, then fit the ends of the gaiters to the engine and the sprocket cover. It'll take you thirty minutes to do the first time, and half that subsequently.

One word of warning though, don't move the bike with the chain half installed or it bursts its way through the rear sprocket cover, like a scene from a bad alien movie.

Steve

[DAVID THOMPSON]

best to get the real mz manual haynes has too many errors
i hide the one i have for old bmw bikes
so my friends do not read it
it has toooo many errors

[jacquesvins]

Hi Jacques,

The secret tip for chain replacement is to use a straightened out wire coat hanger to drag it through the chain gaiters.

Remove the gaiters, drag the chain through it with the coat hanger front to rear. Feed the chain through the chain case - in at the top and fish it out at the bottom. Pull the chain through the lower gaiter and connect it up at the front sprocket. Lube the chain with grease rubbed in with your fingers. Refit the engine side cover, then fit the ends of the gaiters to the engine and the sprocket cover. It'll take you thirty minutes to do the first time, and half that subsequently.

One word of warning though, don't move the bike with the chain half installed or it bursts its way through the rear sprocket cover, like a scene from a bad alien movie.

Steve

Thanks Steve....much appreciated..... cheers Jacques

[jacquesvins]

best to get the real mz manual haynes has too many errors
i hide the one i have for old bmw bikes
so my friends do not read it
it has toooo many errors

Thanks David - much appreciated.... cheers Jacques.

[mr_luke]

I find with the chain that it also helps to remove the rear wheel. That way the danger of moving the bike is removed, and you can rotate the sprocket by hand if you need to. When I did mine a couple of weeks ago, I left the rubber gaiters in place and did the following:
- threaded a length of welding wire through the top gaiter.
- looped it through the end of the chain and pulled it through the gaiter from the engine side towards the rear.
- engaged chain with rear sprocket, poked wire through bottom gaiter and pulled it through.
- fitted split link at engine end, just behind sprocket.

It's easier if you keep some tension on the chain with that third hand we all need, so it doesn't bunch up.

Unfortunately the first thing I had to do was gather up all the bits of plastic and superglue my shattered rear chaincase back together. If you're sensible enough to be performing preventative maintenance and your old chain hasn't made a speedy exit down the road, it's even easier as you can dispense with the welding wire mentioned above. Connect your new chain to the old one with the split link, and use that to pull it through.

[jacquesvins]

I find with the chain that it also helps to remove the rear wheel. That way the danger of moving the bike is removed, and you can rotate the sprocket by hand if you need to. When I did mine a couple of weeks ago, I left the rubber gaiters in place and did the following:
- threaded a length of welding wire through the top gaiter.
- looped it through the end of the chain and pulled it through the gaiter from the engine side towards the rear.
- engaged chain with rear sprocket, poked wire through bottom gaiter and pulled it through.
- fitted split link at engine end, just behind sprocket.

It's easier if you keep some tension on the chain with that third hand we all need, so it doesn't bunch up.

Unfortunately the first thing I had to do was gather up all the bits of plastic and superglue my shattered rear chaincase back together. If you're sensible enough to be performing preventative maintenance and your old chain hasn't made a speedy exit down the road, it's even easier as you can dispense with the welding wire mentioned above. Connect your new chain to the old one with the split link, and use that to pull it through.

Thank you Mr-Luke.....
Your advice sounds very practical and I have taken note....
Much appreciated,

Cheers,

jacquesvins