Year of introduction of Electronic ignitions..?

[Blurredman]

Hi guys,


I'm struggling here. I'm desperately in search of an electronic ignition for my 1990 ETZ 251. The brand new ones someone made and put on e-Bay are gone and I missed out It is unknown when they'll be back on. I was a fool not to buy them immediately. Anyway, I recently saw this one:




It looks like the earliest type that MZ 'offered' and is apparently from an ETZ251. But my 251 has points. It is said that electronic ignitions weren't on the 251's until late 1990 and the Saxon/Kanuni's have a different type of electronic ignition again.


My question is, could I buy the above type of kit and be able for it to work without any more electronics? Is it missing anything to be able to convert a points ignition??#


I would ordinarily not care about electronic ignition, but I see it as one of my only options as mine does not want to be set correctly (possibly incorrect on the crank). To get the bike to have any opening at all before top dead centre the gap needs to be a total of 1mm at the largest point. This means it is running FAR too advanced surely??


I noticed this video (they are helpful aren't they!?) has the 251 with he type of sensor in the picture above.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSl-7aerMnk

[Guesi]

Hello

This is a later model of electronic ignition.
But nevertheless, all these ignition parts are no more available as new parts.
Only second hand.
And if you get one of them, they are not very cheap.
Also the GDR was not very famous to be leader in electronics

I would suggest to buy an ignition from powerdynamo. Price is about 110 Euro incl. german taxes.
spare parts for this ignition are available.

[Blurredman]

Thanks for the response Guesi. I have managed to get the above pictured ignition for £25, including the box. I am aware of the alternatives, but I have no worries if this turns out not to last very long. I will replace with one of the many (surprisingly so!) replacements.

I am however at a loss as to hook it up, I cannot find any documentation at all, the one video of the ignition on-line is an original factory video which actually have different colour wires!

It is actually like this one i believe (I don't have it with me ATM, I'm at work):




I assume that the Green with eye goes to coil,
The red- with eye goes to positive battery,
Brown with eye to earth.

But the three spade types?

[Blurredman]

Hi guys.



So... I have bought and installed the ignition system above.

And it works!! Rather nicely too in my opinion! Kicks back nicely.

However, I'm at a little loss as to how to figure out the position of the rotor for timing firing point.
I'm aware that the proceedure is quite likely that I need to receive a 12v signal at a particular position of the rotation and adjust the timing accordingly.

However I am unsure which wires need to be temporarily disconected for this to be done. Anyone? Thanks in advance.

[Guesi]

Hello

I found a wiring diagram for this ignition.

For adjusting the ignition they write:

Turn off the ignition
Unscrew the ignition spark.
Then measure 2,6 mm before top dead end.
Put a 12 V bulb with wires between 1 and 15 of the ignition coil
Turn ignition on.
loosen the 2 screws that hold the sensor a little bit.
Move the sensor with the 3 wires clockwise until the bulb begins to light up.
Turn the sensor back carefully until the bulb gets dark.
The more exactly you find this point the more exactly is the timing.
Tighten the screws that hold the sensor.
Make 1 complete turn of the crankshaft to control the timing at 2,6 mm .

By the way:
Thge distance between sensor and the magnetic ring on the rotor must be 1,5mm + 0,3 mm.

[Blurredman]

Wow! Thank you very much Guesi!! This is indeed what I was hoping to find!

Do you mean however 31? Not 1? In reference to having an inline bulb "between 1 and 15 of the coil"...

[Guesi]

No, I mean 1.
The 2 contacts on the ignition coil should have these "names"

[Blurredman]

Oh I see! Sorry, the 1 on the terminal on the coil in the diagramme is rather obscured by the scan quality.


Thank you very much. I will try this tonight!

[Guesi]

I could not make a better quality, because the paper is quite old and worn out

[Blurredman]

I'm definitely not complaining!

I have however, taken the liberty to 'restore' the number 1 and also added it to my own document database for future reference and for anyone else who requires it.


Thanks again..

ftp://www.blurredmanswebsite.crabdance. ... undung.jpg

ABOVE LINK MAY REQUIRE YOU TO TURN OFF FIREWALL OR VIRUS PROTECTION its to a file transfer site and some browsers will block it
DAVE
post below has a cleaned up drawing of same thing

[DAVID THOMPSON]

I think that the use of number 1 is the side of the coil that the points ground when closed
15 is switched power older bikes with a mag show 2 as the ground for the mag kill button
i edited the drawing in above post as it did not come out correct the site cropped most of it
dave

i used the drawing in paint and tried to clean it up
dave
click to make bigger or download it

[Blurredman]

Thanks dave.

This might be a bit of a boot point for me now.

I successfully fitted the ignition system and it was working well (the sparks were amazing!) but today when I attempted to time it something has gone wrong. I don't get any spark at all now. I think the CDI unit box has blown. It's a sealed unit too so I can't even do anything but buy a new one.. Really Pissed off, because that was an original box too.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

i know how to work on things but the factories make it harder every day

the old magnetos were good self powered they just need a way to make a hotter spark
and be totally separate from the rest of the bike so you can bump start and drive home when all the modern crap dies
dave

[Blurredman]

Hi guys.


Well I received and installed the electronic ignition system available from MZ-B.net...

It seems to work as it should. I came under a cropper of a problem though with my poor battery (the bike hadn't been used for 2-3 weeks..)

You need at least 11v to have the system working (at all). I guess there is one thing for points... Despite being a bike for the people there are a couple of downfalls with them, and you can add an extra one to that if you use electronic ignition.. And yet my '79 Suzuki TS185ER is magneto with electronic ignition...I love the implementation that went into that bike..

I think the timing is a bit retarded at the minute as it struggles to get past 4.5k rpm.....? Is that the likely cause? I seem to recall that it found it difficult to get past that speed with the points too and they were running too advanced.. So I'm not sure whether it is the ignition doing that. I will check the coil resistance..


I think I will install a volt/amp meter to my bike.