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[arthurf]

G'day from Australia to you all,
I have recently bought an ETZ250 1987 model. The bike is really good, except for one thing, the clutch does not fully disengage (especially when the engine is hot).
I have checked that it has the correct cable, and that the plastic distance piece at the bottom of the cable i still holding the cable correctly, but there is no adjustment left at the handlebar end. The clutch does not slip, and the bike is OK to ride (once 1st gear has been engaged,and the bike made a bit of a jump to move forward).
Tickover has been adjusted to around 1300rpm.
Once on the road the amount of travel on the handlebar lever is minimal (maybe 5cms) before becoming "free to move in and out". At take off the is only activation on clutch is at the very end (5cms) of letting the lever out.
Sounds to me like there is something amiss in the clutch mechanism (and I have not yet been in there). The clutch was built by someone else, and I do not know if it was ever right?
Suggestions of what to look for, and do I have to get the clutch locking tool and get into it? Could any of the parts in the activation part of the clutch be in wrong way round and have this impact (or wear and tear on something)?
Your help appreciated. arthurf

[Blurredman]

I'm glad there are MZ's in Australia! Welcome!


You know, I had a similar symtom. And the problem was that the wrong transmission oil was used.

What oil have you used? If it is a new bike- do you know what the previous owner used?

The transmission oil grade should be GL3 or GL4. Do not use GL5!


GL5 oil has different properties to the above and melds the cork clutch plates together.

[arthurf]

G'day Blurredman,
Unfortunately I am not aware of which oil has been used, since I believe the engine was built by 2 owners ago!.
However I can ensure that I get a correct grade of oil and do an oil change - provided that is that I do not have to take the clutch out and wash off the plates?
Anyway many thanks for your reply, which I will try to check out.
Arthurf

[Blurredman]

Don't forget, not just grade of oil, but also variation of oil.

80/90 GL3/ GL4.

Lots of people have success with semi synthetic or even fully synthetic 75/80 so long as it is GL4.


Do not use GL5!


Good luck on your search! It's a good thing at least that the bike only needs 1l.


Anyway. Normally you don't have to take the clutch apart. Simply put new oil in and give it a whirl. For your own piece of mind though, you might want to give it a 2nd change after a 20 mile ride?



Also.. Pics!

[Skyeport]

Hi Fellow Aussie MZ'er.
There is adjustment behind the tacho drive (or plain round cover if there is no tacho on your bike)
Mine took a while to get it adjusted just right.
Might help?

[arthurf]

G'day Skyesport,
Yes I have had the tacho drive off and looked at the little plate. Not quite sure how it adjusts anything? It is free to move, and only very lightly held in place by the 3 screws/bolts of the tacho mounting. Am I missing something?
Any/all help appreciated - this is my first foray into MZs BTW where are you? I am in Mornington Peninsula, Victoria - if help was close at hand, that would be great . Interested in keeping in touch. Arthur

[Blurredman]

You can adjust the plate. This plate changes where the biting point for slack in the cable to the clutch operation.

I normally disregard the very specific 11mm clearnance stated between eye of cable hold and case.


Sometimes the adjustment just doesn't work enough. The adjustment on the case is the 'course' adjustment and on the handlebars the fine adjustment.

I normally, depending on wear of clutch, cable length or whatever adjust the plate (anti-clockwise for bringing the actuating rod into the case further-clockwise for pushing it out. you don'tneed to do that, and i would not advise doing it too much, as the worm tooth type clutch actuator can come off. Which requires the case to come off to put back together again.. Don't do it ^^^.)


Anyway- I bring the eye further into the case. then clamp up the plate. The attach cable and sort that out, then fine adjust at the handlebars.

You wil definately find this video helpful, esspecially from 49:30 onwards.