Newby

[Retired1]

Just picked up an '02 Traveler? [full fairing] with 20k showing and it doesn't look too abused. Primary question is, what is the easy way to remove the carbs? Do I have to unbolt the sub frame or do I push the filterside boots into the air box and roll the carbs up and out? It has a pretty bad flat spot/stutter around 3500-4500 and I assume its clogged jets/progression holes. Still has the carbon cannister and what looks like solenoid controlled bowl vents. Are vacuum caps called for? Has a swollen tank [ethanol fuel] do they shrink if they sit empty for a while? Any manuals around to download? I love old unappreciated weirdo bikes and this one looks like fun!

[droy]

Retired1,

yes you can push/fold the boots out of the way so you can pull the carbs. Do a search on Carbs and the "hidden filter" on this forum to address the stumble issue.

Yes the entire emissions set-up can and should be removed. The fuel pump can also be removed. Most folks use a direct (with fuel filter) feed from the tank to carbs.

Swollen tank issue is a PITA - most will shrink back. I have 5 MuZ tanks - all but one (the 1994 build date) have cracking paint .

I can email you a copy( PDF) of the owners manual or find it on the MZ Skorpion page on FB.

[Retired1]

Thanks, Droy I stared at the carbs for about 2 beers and managed to get them out without too much trouble. The snorkles are old and stiff so a heat gun and silicone spray were employed. Plugged pilot and mixture screw port along with the secondary main jet were the culprits. Normal for sitting with E10 I guess. Idles/runs a lot better, haven't had a chance to ride it yet though. There is a line coming off a diaphram port on the primary carb that goes to the cannister do i plug it or vent to atmosphere? There is a solenoid that opens with the ign. on that connects to the carb bowl vent[s] i guess I'll just undo the lines from the solenoid right? Are fork seals around? got aleaker.