where does the oil go?

[oldbiker1]

on my 1989 Skorp Traveller, 90,000kms now, I check the oil level in the tank before every ride. I fill it to the minimum level as always, and even on a short 200km ride i have to refill about 300+mls of oil! Where does it go to? It doesnt rattle, blow smoke, no blue smoke on acceleration either...im puzzled.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

big piston big ring my 900s bmw from 1974 used a qt or more in 1000 miles from 20,000 miles on
your getting close to 60,000 miles even with a water cooled bike i am not surprised
Dave
feed it 20w 50 and run it
just be nice and do not run the crap out of it
it is getting a bit long in the tooth
but being nice to it is good for some more miles

[Blurredman]

I would be more inclined to fill it to the maximum mark

My CX is getting towards 90k miles and It looses a pint roughly every 500 miles..

What I tend to do, is the oil change in the winter time if i'm using it constantly- at around November- I use the stated 10w40 Motorcycle oil.. And through the winter and into the summer until the next time I change the oil I am constantly topping it up with really cheap 20w50.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[AlanJ]

Hi Guys,
All that has been said previously is fine, except for the talk about cheap oil, now, firstly I definitely do not profess to know much about oils other than
what has been suggested in the manufacturer's manuals but somewhere in my past I seem o remember something about oil sheer in high revving engines, and why one should not use cheap oil for a high revving engine, which of course is more expensive because of the sheer factor. If I remember rightly the subject came up when I had my Honda CX which has quite a high revving engine.
Anyway, take care Alan.

[Blurredman]

Hi Guys,
All that has been said previously is fine, except for the talk about cheap oil, now, firstly I definitely do not profess to know much about oils other than
what has been suggested in the manufacturer's manuals but somewhere in my past I seem o remember something about oil sheer in high revving engines, and why one should not use cheap oil for a high revving engine, which of course is more expensive because of the sheer factor. If I remember rightly the subject came up when I had my Honda CX which has quite a high revving engine.
Anyway, take care Alan.

When it comes to the CX there is a lot of debate.. to be fair there is a lot of debate with all bikes it seems.. "What oil?" is the question that every asks on every forum on every web link..

When it comes to my CX.. I've actually only used the cheapest oil.. And because I was too cheap to buy motorbike specific oil, for many years I used to use 20w50. Which although has been removed (INGSOC) from later manuals, is actually in the first manual releases as an accepted oil. I used 20w50 simply because it was so cheap, and because it didn't mess with the clutch..


There is one thing to note.. If you really want to stick to the specified '8,000 mile' oil change interval and only do an oil filter change every other oil change.. then i'd say that was a bit long in the tooth. I change it every 5k miles or less, filter too. Maybe people are running far far too long between oil changes when you were riding your CX.. In honesty.. there might be an argument that because mine burns so much and I top it up so often, then I might feel that I didn't ever do an oil change..

[DAVID THOMPSON]

my stepson had several cx 500s they like nice clean fresh good oil
and there known for loosing the crank if you neglect that at least here in my area of USA
and i have helped replace the crank in 2 of them

there are several of them seen almost daily here being used as daily drivers
Dave

i almost bought a CX but the 1963 reg r50s spoiled me at the time 1976 to 1999

[JawasandMZs]

On this topic I had 1997 kawasaki ER5 with way over 50,000 miles on the clock when sadly it was stolen & it and not only did it burn zero oil, it was still clean/golden after a year of ownership. This isn't a very good advert for big old fashioned air-cooled engines!

OH and by the way, kawasaki is NEVER spelt K.....

[oldbiker1]

it might be time for a top end rebuild then. thanks for your replies and advice

[DAVID THOMPSON]

new rings maybe,hone it and check /give the valves leak test and new stem seals
and timing chain and Tensioner check

if compression is good maybe valve stem seals ? would help
compress air in spark plug hole with engine at top dead center
to hold valves in place while replacing the seals
de burr the valve stem tips before install of new seals

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

the abuse a turbocharger shaft takes it surprises me
they hold up as well as they due
dave

[oldbiker1]

I had a good chat to my mechanic bloke as this is out of my league. He suggested a top end rebuild( piston, rings, hone if needed, valve stem seals, timing bits) and I said we may as well change the timing sprocket (?) for a solid Banshee one as well at the same time. He can either do the work fully or I drop the engine off to him. Im thinking the latter as Ill save $$ I dont have.

[Puffs]

Following a biased and flawed moderator choice (someone posting aggressive personal attacks is rewarded, while my technical posts are removed - behind my back & without any justification!), I have withdrawn from this forum.