ES150 will not run right!!

[ScotBob]

The more I look the more I find wrong, so will take a pause and evaluate what parts I need and order them up; stay tuned for the rebuild info as and when I get all the required parts together.

[Puffs]

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[Blurredman]

Good luck on your re-build.

As for the bike as a whole being non-original, there are probably many things you have found (keep aside the engine) which are ''wrong''. Ah it took me a couple of years to rectify the previous owners imagination on my '87 ETZ250 and get it back to original and stock (for the most part). It didn't bother me at first, because It was also converted into a sort of trail rider bike. But the more I rode it offroad, the more I realised it just wasn't suitable for that application- so I had to do a lot of parts buying and wiring rectification to get it back to standard And I really enjoy it this way...

[breakwellmz]

Some pics:

What yours is a replica of i would say -

[ScotBob]

So I have assembled the LHS casing with all new bearings and reinstalled the gearbox; I have been trying to adjust the gearbox as per the manual but I just can't seem to get all the gears and neutral, no matter what I do I only seem to get four of the five positions.

Currently I have 1st to 4th selecting ok but cannot get neutral, when assembling the gearbox is there a specific start position for the dog to be in, I have tried it in different positions and the one that that has given most success was to start in 4th but now neutral is elusive,I've been at this for days and i'm sure it's something simple but surely it should not be this difficult.

Gears all worked fine and selected ok before disassembly and components are not excessively worn ;any clues as to what the issue might be?

[breakwellmz]

Yours IS a four speed i had assumed?

[ScotBob]

Yes it’s a 4 speed, when referring to five positions that’s four gears plus neutral.

[Blurredman]

It might be difficult to select gears whilst it is in situ like that. Without the gears turning etc it can be difficult and actually mis-leading to make you think it isn't changing gears properly or at all. And even if you do turn the gears you're not going to do it as fast as the engine so it might seem notchy etc. The sequential nature of a motorcycle gearbox does require the gearbox to be spinning in order to go up the gears.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

had a Yamaha ym1 that was not shifting correct..
turned out the lever was bent and not pulling the clutch cable
the full distance the cable needed to move for proper shifting''
the lever hit handlebar too soon
if it did not slip in top gear then neutral was hard to find
dave

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[ScotBob]

That's the gearbox assembled and all gears selecting plus neutral, no trick to it but for anyone doing it in the future, I found it much easier to set up if I initially assembled it so 4th gear was selected, then make the adjustments from there. All new bearings fitted in the casing too, awaiting crank seals and a number of other bits before I continue.

[ScotBob]

Some advice for others doing a similar build for the first time as I have wasted money by jumping in and buying stuff that was wrong or I don't actually need.

First up, engine rebuild kits from ebay advertised as for ES and TS models, they are not and only 3 of the 6 bearings were the right size and only one of the oil seals was correct. The vendor was useless and no help, they know nothing of their products and simply buy the kits in from elsewhere and resell them, therefore they could not supply the correct items, thankfully the gaskets look ok. In the end I got the missing bearings from a local bearing shop.

Next up was tools: I paid a lot of money before I started and bought in a set of tools supposedly required to split a ES, TS or ETZ model, again this turned out to be rubbish. Four tools in the kit; a standard bolt (most will have one lying around) to remove the generator, a flywheel puller for which I have no need, a clutch holding tool (I did use) and another tool for which I have no clue what it does but guess it's for an ETZ. In short for an ES or TS you don't need them and to hold the clutch you could easily make something up for nothing or find a workaround.

To remove the primary sprocket I had to make up a puller as a standard two or three legged item will not fit and I also made a tool to remove and replace the clutch pins that hold the springs and caps in place. All clutch springs were out of spec and will be replaced but the plates are in spec.

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[dave47]

Bob,
Are you saying you have ignored the instructions in the manual regarding the specified clearances of 16.1mm in 4th and 0.1-0.2mm in 3rd. If so, isn't that risky and likely to lead to grinding gears?

[ScotBob]

Bob,
Are you saying you have ignored the instructions in the manual regarding the specified clearances of 16.1mm in 4th and 0.1-0.2mm in 3rd. If so, isn't that risky and likely to lead to grinding gears?

No? Not sure what gave you that impression, I have 0.2mm in 3rd and 15.74 in 4th is as close as I can get as I run out of adjustment thereafter, interesting that online rebuilds (Youtube) all go for 12mm, thats a big difference?