New ETZ 250 rider here and some questions

[mick]

I had a problem with my triumph Bonneville speedo and I used a graphite powder after cleaning all oil from both the inner and outer cable with brake cleaner and staying shy of the last bit of the cable before it enters the clock and It improved the problem greatly. Perhaps a dry moly lube spray lube could be used instead.

[mick]

I mean I did not lube the last few inches of the inner cable.

[klemmy]

I just tried to get the counter out of the bracket and a rubber sleeve....No go.

Counter is absolutely stuck in the place where it should normally be. If I push the wire or the speedo cable upwards, you can see the counter plate is moving, but the whole speedo is standing still. Soaked in the WD 40-no result. Maybe someone put some silicone on the bracket ring inside in the past, I dont know...One option is to cut the rubber sleeve at the bottom side of the bracket ring with olfa knife and then somehow glued it back

About the noises....When I will do some more rides, I will be able to tell more accurte, when this noise appears...I wish I had a proper camera to record it.

[Blurredman]

The clocks, if left for many years without removal can be extremely difficult to get out. Only the right leverage, perseverence and trying to lubricated it can make it work. Once you have the clock at a point you have your fingers under the metal ring, then it becomes easier..

[Puffs]

Removed

[dave47]

I have used a broad bladed screwdriver between the Chrome rim and the rubber to gradually twist it up while pushing the clock from below, until there is enough to get hold of.

[Puffs]

Removed

[klemmy]

I managet to get the speedo out of housing....that was a real struggle

But now I have a much bigger problem...I tried to change the bulbs in the speedo. When I tested them, front right blinker did nothing...I switched them back with the old ones, the same problem....I forgot to take a picture before I dismantled the wiring to the bulbs and now I simply dont know where goes which. Can anyone please help me with some photo of the wire connection on the back side of the speedo?

[Puffs]

Removed

[klemmy]

Today is one weird day

Somehow I managed to deal with those wires, your photo helped me a lot, well, Im learning, step by step, to take a photo before dismantling anything.

Ugess I drained out the battery a bit, while I was testing all the lights...Then I started the bike...suddenly all the indicators are working fine, only stop light didnt work on the handelbar lever. I thought, the switch is broken, I will deal with this thing later.

Then I tried to start the bike to check the speedometer behavior after cable lubing and adding a rubber ring, as Puffs suggested...The bike started like it had a fire crackers in the exhaust, so I thought, that there is a timing or spark plug issue....then I finnaly managed it to run somehow, when I put the lights on, engine dies....

I decided, to wait for a minute, then I tried to do it again. Sucess! I drove off with no lights on, I put them on while driving, they are working just fine and even the brake light from handlebar switch is back into life again!

Yes, about the speedo...It is still jumping, but not like before, but still far from accurasy...at least, if the needle is jumping betwen 40 and 60 km/h, then the speed is about 50 km/h

And finally, when I came back from cca 8 km ride, I had noticed that the oil is leaking again from the little shim, right next to the neutral light switch. It was a bit sideways again. I get it back into position gently with hammer. What is the function of this shim anyway?

What did your MZ for you today?

[Kruh]

And finally, when I came back from cca 8 km ride, I had noticed that the oil is leaking again from the little shim, right next to the neutral light switch. It was a bit sideways again. I get it back into position gently with hammer. What is the function of this shim anyway?

That little shim is just a cap (plug) to block the hole where the shift drum shaft sits. For some reason MZ didn't use a blind hole in the block, instead they bored the hole all the way through during manufacturing, hence the need for a plug to block oil from coming out.
That plug coming loose seems to be a common thing. Happend to me too, I took it out completely and hammered it on a curved top to enlarge the diameter slightly, so that when i put it back in the block it holds itself in better. I also used a bit of threadlocker when installing it, and finished it off by putting a bit of sealent on the outside, just in case.

[Puffs]

Removed

[Blurredman]

I like to use this diagramme - There is one specific for the 250 as opposed to the 251 but this is a clearer image but there are some small differences:





As for the core plug- I have problems with this too on both my ETZ's. Though not yet with my Trophy thankfully. I have tried to use epoxy to keep them in place and to stop leaking but they still do leak a bit- it's very annoying. I did consider sending the cases to get welded but the machinist I used is no longer unfortunately.

[Puffs]

Removed

[Blurredman]

The only difference in terms of the clocks between the 250 and 251 is that the 251 has a background light on the rev counter when the pilot lamp position is used. On the ETZ250 only the speedo is lit when the pilot lamps are turned on.

The other difference is the way the rear brake light switch works and some other small wiring differences and routing. But fairly the same.

Notice that even though this diagramme is 1989> they still used the old <1986 sprite for the low beam/high beam switch as below.